Photography techniques Ball lightning

Cause of ball lightning

Ball lightning is one of the few phenomena that are widely accepted in the popular and scientific community as being real, although none of the many theories can fully explain all reports of people who observed ball lightning.

The more 'successful' theories explain ball lightning as being caused either by glowing carbon fibres, 'maser' of the air (microwave amplification), gas discharges and such. Probably there are several different kinds of ball lightning that can be caused by different mechanisms. Whatever its cause, ball lightning is quite rare and very exciting to witness, if you are interested in lightning and thunderstorms.

Ball lightning is mostly witnessed as being a spherical glowing ball usually a few centimeters or inches in diameter, similar in brightness to a 100-Watt light bulb. It may exist several seconds, drift through the air, drift through glass panes or be connected to a metal structure, and it may end silently or explosively.

Ball lightning is said to occur mostly during active thunderstorms, and many reports seem to come from relatively flat areas (not mountainous). Almost every storm may produce ball lightning but they are rarely seen.

Photographing ball lightning

I have never seen a photograph that clearly shows ball lightning. Many if not most photos I have seen either show streaked photos from artificial light sources or powerline failures (sparks or fireballs originating from powerline transformers and such). Other photos possibly show ball lightning but very far away.

The best tactic to have any chance to document ball lightning is to have a digital camera ready to use at all times during a thunderstorm. That camera must have a lens attached and be turned on. But even that tactic may not work. The only possible ball lightning I have seen existed so shortly that I didn't even have time to grab my camera, even though it was ready to take pictures.

A photo that shows a streaked light purportedly being ball lightning often turns out to be fake. There is even more reason to be suspicious when the photographer didn't see anything unusual during the exposure.

Some possible causes for fake ball lightning photos

As said above, most photos that purportedly show ball lightning are either faked or accidentally show something else. Some possibilities for misidentification of ball lightning are:

• powerline faults, usually in the form of sparks or plasma arcs at transformers ('pole pigs' as they are called in the USA).

• photos of lightning while the tripod-mounted camera was bumped during the time exposure. Even though the lightning may not be blurred, because the bumping of the camera could have occurred before or after the flash, any foreground light such as a streetlight will show curious tracks along the photo with a bright ball of light at one end (the location where the streetlight appeared during most of the time exposure).

• fireflies that fly through the camera view; since they light up only briefly, they will show a short track of light in the frame.

• fireworks and flares.

• glowing sparks that jump away from the contact point of lightning with ground the instant it strikes.

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips---5. Horizon Line Mayhem

For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.

Part of the problem is that your camera's optics introduce distortion when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but they seem to be bowing inward on your camera's monitor. No wonder photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.

Figure 5. How do you square up an image in the LCD viewfinder so it appears "level" when you view it later on the computer? Look for nature's horizontal lines and use them as guides. Sometimes you can use the line where the sky meets the ocean, other times you can use a strip of land as your level. In this case I used the shoreline of a mountain lake to help me align this composition. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture Priority exposure set to f-8, polarizer filter)

What can you do? Well, there's no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.

First of all, be aware that it's important to capture your images as level as possible. If you're having difficulty framing the scene to your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will "feel right" when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the perfectly aligned image.

If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase dramatically.

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips---4. Macro Mode Madness

Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.

These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin to explore your world in finer detail, you'll be rewarded with fresh new images unlike anything you've ever shot before.

Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And the best part is that it's so easy to do with digital cameras.

Figure 4. Nature looks much different, and sometimes more compelling, at close range. (Canon PowerShot G2, Programmed exposure, spot meter, Close Up mode, flash off)

Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will allow. Once you've found something to your liking, hold the shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to record the image.

Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that's most important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.

Where Do You Store Your Digital Photos?

Do you have a ton of photos in your collection? Perhaps you've been taking many photos over the holiday season or during your last vacation. Where do you store all those photos? This article will run through some ideas on digital photo storage so that you know how to approach the storage issue in future. Essentially, there are a few options you have when it comes to storing photos - memory cards, hard drives, CD/DVDs and online storage.

Using Memory Cards

Of course, one lazy way to 'store' your images is to leave them all in your camera's memory card. Not a very good idea. For one thing, you need to clear out space in your camera's memory card to take more photos, so you certainly should try storing them elsewhere. Think about it - if you're snapping 5 megapixel images very frequently, I guarantee you that even a 1GB memory card will run out very quickly.

A SanDisk 512 MB CompactFlash memory card
 

Using Hard Drives

After you import your images from your camera to your computer (usually via a USB cable), you should have those pictures stored in your hard drive. Hard drives are pretty cheap these days. For $100, you can get a branded 160 GB hard disk (that's enough to store about 32,000 pictures at 5 megapixel resolution each!).

The Seagate Barracuda 160 GB hard drive

Based on personal experience, I'd say the only problem with hard drives is the uncertainty of the data safety. I'm talking about hard disk crashes and virus infections. If your computer is used by all family members, there is a small chance the hard disk may crash due to virus infections ( e.g. from surfing the web). To avoid this, I'd recommend using CDs and DVDs as your back option.
 

Using CDs and DVDs

Right – if you're not using a memory card or hard drive to store photos, the next best option might be to use CDs or DVDs. A CD-R can typically store 650 MB worth of photos and a DVD-R can store 4GB of photos. You'll need a CD burner or a DVD burner, along with a CD or DVD burning software to burn those photos. One good example of such software is Nero Burning ROM.

The Sony DRX710UL External DVD Burner

Personally, I prefer to store my photos in DVDs. When burning DVDs, I will set each DVD to be a multi-session DVD. This means I can burn, say, 1GB worth of photos on one session, leaving 3GB of DVD space for another burning session.
 

Storing Your Photos Online

Another good option is to store your photos online. You can either use online photo sharing sites or upload them to your own website . This is a great way to share your photos with friends and family without the hassles of emailing photos. Some of the photo sharing sites allow you to specify logon passwords for specific users to come online and view private photos. You can also read my guide on sharing your photos for more information.
 

Conclusion

Well, I hope you now have a better idea of how to store your photos. Besides using memory cards and hard drives, one can use CDs, DVDs or store them online. Whichever way you choose, remember to file them so that they are easy to find. Here's a guide to organizing your photo collection to help you along. Good luck and remember to backup your treasured photo collection!

6 Tips for Shooting Great Sunset Photos

If you like taking sunset photos, you're not alone. Many photographers I know love to take shots of sunsets. Perhaps its because they imbue a sense of peace in us. Perhaps they're a challenge to take given the same time window during which the sun sets. This article will show you some tips for shooting beautiful sunset photos. Once you master the basics, it gets easier and easier.

A beautiful and scenic sunset photo
 

Tip 1: Get a Full View

When shooting sunsets, it's important to position yourself so that you get a full view of the sunset. An example is to perch yourself on a high point. Another good idea is to catch the sun reflecting off water. I also like to photograph the sun setting between the leaves of trees. Think about different, creative ways of viewing a sunset. It will help enhance the beauty of your shots.
 

Tip 2: Keep Shooting

Here's another tip for shooting sunset photos. Keep shooting! This is very important because there is only a small time window during which the sun sets. Get in as many shots as you can and select the best. With practice, your sunset photos will start looking better and better.
 

Tip 3: Clouds

When shooting sunset photos, clouds make a nice backdrop. Clouds add color and texture to an otherwise uninteresting photo. Try to look for cloudy skies to add more variety and texture to your photos.
 

Tip 4: Shooting Off-Center

Another tip I recommend is to shoot the sun off-center. It's not essential to keep the sun right in the center of the photo. You can position the horizon at bottom of the frame, so that you can highlight the sky, or perhaps focus on a subject in the foreground. Try this, you can get many interesting silhouette effects.
 

Tip 5: Use Multiple Exposure Settings

A good thing to try is to try multiple exposure settings. I use a technique called bracketing (which simply means shooting the same picture at different exposures) to get the best shot. If the picture is too bright, underexpose it and vice versa. To bring out details of a person in the foreground, try using the fill flash or night mode. Experimenting with exposure is very important for getting the best looking sunset photos.
 

Tip 6: Zoom In

Always bring along a telephoto lens when shooting sunsets. That way, if you suddenly have an urge to make the sun larger and more impressive, you can simply zoom in. Some of the best shots of sunsets I've seen are done with long focal lengths in this manner.
 

Conclusion

Sunset photos are a pleasure to take. However, they do pose challenges that are unique. Exposure settings can be tricky, and there is a limited time window to take your shots. Try to apply the above tips in your next sunset photo shoots – I'm sure you'll start getting better results. Happy shooting!

5 Tips for Photographing Fireworks

Imagine you're at a celebration event, camera in hand, waiting for a fireworks display. There's a certain excitement when you shoot pictures of fireworks. Maybe it's because the lights move so fast. Maybe it's because shooting these pictures require tricky exposure settings. In any case, I find shooting fireworks to be one of the most interesting types of photography. To help those who are new to this genre of photography, here are some good tips to follow.

A spectacular display of fireworks
 

Tip 1: Remove UV or Polarizing Filters

This is always my first tip to photographers shooting fireworks. Remove the UV or polarizing filters from your camera before the fireworks display. I have, on many occasions, forgotten to do this and the results were often disastrous. By the time I got the lenses off, I'd have missed several minutes of the fireworks display.
 

Tip 2: Right Angles to the Wind

Try to position yourself at right angles to the wind. Positioning yourself in this manner ensures that the light bursts in the fireworks streak across you as you snap pictures. This creates the interesting fireworks streaking effect you see in so many photos out there. The other advantage is that smoke will be blown out of your frame faster, giving rise to nicer, cleaner shots.
 

Tip 3: Bring the Tripod

Fireworks (and night photography in general) require long exposures. As such, always remember to bring your tripod along for the occasion. Ensure that you set up the tripod and try out some sample exposure settings way before those fireworks come on.
 

Tip 4: Focusing

As the fireworks display comes on, I think it's pretty important to focus on the first few bursts of fireworks. Taking the time to do this will ensure that you have nice, well-focused shots subsequently. Many amateurs tend to get excited once we see and hear the fireworks, and forget about focusing altogether.
 

Tip 5: Background

Another thing to look out for when photographing fireworks – check the background of the picture. Ensure that there are no city lights or moon in the background. The presence of these lights will diminish the impact of the fireworks display.
 

Conclusion

In summary, fireworks are a beautiful thing to photograph. However, they do present a special challenge in that the lights come out for only a short time. Moreover, the exposure settings can be tricky. If you keep practicing though, I'm sure that one day you'll become an expert at photographing fireworks.

News--Local teen turns love of music, photography into budding business

Looking back at old photographs, and listening to some of our favorite songs ---- be them new or old ---- are some of the best ways to keep memories alive. Which is exactly what fifteen-year-old Anthony DiSano believed when he launched Temecula-based DiSano Photography one year ago. Influenced by his love of music, and his father's interest in cameras, DiSano decided to turn his love into a business.

"I got my first film camera from my grandfather when I was about 10 years old, and I loved it," said the Temecula Valley High School sophomore. "I took as many pictures as I could, but the camera ended up breaking because it wasn't a high-quality one. After that incident, I stopped taking pictures for awhile, but photography always stayed a big interest of mine. My dad was into photography a lot, and I was always intrigued by what he was doing. I would help him, and he taught me a lot, as well. About two years ago, I bought my own SLR, and became dedicated and focused enough to make photography a type of business for myself. I wanted to go somewhere with it, so I created a MySpace profile where I could showcase all of the bands and photo shoots that I've done. It started out as just a couple local bands, but now I've started to expand."
With a musical background, DiSano felt that shooting musicians doing what they love, creating music, was the ultimate way to go with his endeavor.

"I have been in a few bands, and have loved music since I was young," revealed DiSano. "I've had experience with various instruments, but I mainly just play guitar and sing. I've sung for a few different bands, and am currently in one right now. Over the years, I've worked at different venues, and am currently working as an apprentice for a sound-mixing studio. I'm happy to have found a way to incorporate both. I don't like to limit myself to being a music photographer ---- I like to do abstract stuff as well as basic scenic shots. Music is what I want to base my life around, so what better way is there to do that, than to try and capture the energy and power of music in a photograph."

And, of course, the perks aren't too bad either.

"I haven't received any financial support in my photography," said DiSano. "However, the fact that I get into shows for free, and often get free merchandise, or some type of hook-up is nice. Other than that, though, I pay for everything. It's difficult, but I get by. In a business where technology rules and money is the backbone for advanced technology, it is a struggle sometimes. There are always a lot of better cameras, better flashes, better memory, and pretty much all around better equipment that could help me out, but I stick with what I have. The old motto 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it' really gets me by."

So what is a typical day like for a photography ingenue? What course of action must he go through to prepare for the show, and his upcoming assignments?

"Since I'm still in high school, during the week I am going to school, doing homework, and other normal stuff," said DiSano. "Depending on my current assignment, I will have to work on my photos after school and on weekends. If it's the day of the show, my day is more hectic. I have to make sure everything is ready ---- check that the batteries are charged, and the memory cards are clean. Then I need to get a ride to the show. I usually get there early, before the crowds arrive, that way I can check my surroundings out. Usually I'm friends with the band and/or venue, so I hang out a bit. I check out the stage and see what I'll set my equipment to, then I just wait until showtime, when I can get to work. From there on it's nonstop photo taking. Following the show, I have to edit my pictures, and give myself credit for the ones that I'll be sending out. To finish it all off, I upload the pictures to my profile, then send them out to any of the bands, venues, booking companies, record labels, and just about anyone else who has requested them."

DiSano, who has worked with Vertex Clothing, as well as artists such as Covette, Bad Robots, Lower Definition, Yesterdays Rising, Shaunteclair, and I Am Ghost, may currently work with predominantly California-based bands, but he's looking to expand his photography empire.

"I mostly work with local artists, but I have also had the opportunity to shoot a few touring bands from other states, as well. I want to extend my work, and try to start projects with bands and groups from all over the world," he said.

"Currently, I mainly take action shots," said DiSano. "The first concert I ever went to got me hooked like a drug. The way the fans feed off the music, and the bands feed off the crowd is such an amazing feeling. The two reactions combine to become a swirl of expression and musical movement that just really impressed me. I sought out a way to become a part of that, and give back to the music scene, as well as try to capture what was being created. I believe that's why action shots interest me so much. I would like to attempt more promo shots though."

As for future photography jobs, DiSano isn't biased about his subjects, as long as they give him the opportunity to express himself, and to showcase moods and/or feelings in the end result.

"I want to photograph anything and everything I can. Not just bands, but anything that comes my way. I want to keep my mind open to different aspects of photography, and see where it takes me. I eventually want to create a website for my photography, and make it a part-time or even full-time career. In the future, I would like to have a partner or team of photographers whom I could assist, and, in return, they could assist me. I just want to see where this takes me."

To learn more about DiSano Photography or setting up a session, visit Anthony at myspace.com/disanophotography.

By: ERIKA SOROCCO - For The Californian

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips--Chapter3

3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine

One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you've just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.

In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.

After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.

Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don't stand too far away when using fill flash outdoors.

Figure 3. By placing the subjects in the open shade beneath a tree and turning on the fill flash, both the boys and the background are properly exposed. (Canon PowerShot G2, 1/250th at f-4, flash on)

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips--Chapter2

2.Sunglasses Polarizer

If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.

What's that you say? Your digital camera can't accommodate filters. Don't despair. I've been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don't have the rims in the shot.

For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.

Figure 2a.

If your camera doesn't accept filters, then you can still achieve the effects of a polarizer by placing your sunglasses over the lens. Figure 2a is shot normally without any filtration. Figure 2b is shot during the same session, but with sunglasses placed over the lens. Notice the enhanced colors and deeper sky tones. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)

Figure 2b.

A Beginner's Guide to Wedding Photography

A Beginner's Guide to Wedding Photography

Have you ever been asked to take photos for a wedding? For some, wedding photography is a casual affair. Take a point-and-shoot camera, then snap away when the opportunity arises. For others, it’s a serious, full-fledged business.

Wedding photos are a challenge to take, simply because of the flurry of activities that go on and the wide variety of lighting conditions that may occur. This article will serve as a guide for those starting out in wedding photography, and will delve into various tips and tricks.

Preparation

One of the most critical elements in being a successful wedding photographer is preparation. You absolutely need to prepare ahead (at least 2 months’ ahead) of time. Get to know the bride and the groom, understand their needs and wants. Some good questions to ask are:

• How many photographers will there be?
• What type of photos would they like? Mostly formal group portraits? Or mostly candid shots of the couple?
• How many guests will there be at the wedding? Are they mostly family members or friends?
• Which locations will be used at the wedding? A church? Will there be a reception or a dinner?

Asking pertinent questions like these will help you understand the requirements for the wedding photos and thereby take better shots.

Locations, Events and Times

Once you’ve understood what the wedding locations, events and times are, find some time to go scout around those places.

For a church wedding, I usually like to go inside the church to check out the lighting, décor and environment. I try to find the correct places to position myself so I don’t mess up during the wedding day. Do take note that some churches do not allow flash photography during the wedding ceremony. So you may need to get a fast lens.

It’s also important to check out places like the reception area, or the podium where the speech will be made. If there will be a wedding dance, then check out the dance floor and the seating arrangement if possible.

Organize Your Gear

This is a critical step. I usually prepare 1 month ahead of the wedding date just to be sure I have time to get any equipment I’ve missed out. Here’s a list of critical equipment to bring for the wedding day shoot:

• Digital camera: This one is obvious. It’s good to have a backup analog camera as well, just in case.
• Camera Lenses and filters: Take along any special lenses or filters you want to use.
• Tripod: Another critical piece of equipment, important for indoor shots under low light.
• Memory cards: Bring at least two 1 GB cards. I’m not kidding – you won’t believe how many shots you’ll take during a wedding.
• Portable drive: This is critical in case you run out of space on those memory cards.
• Assistant: Try to bring along an assistant. It could be a friend or a help at the wedding. He or she can help you arrange the group before you take photos, taking a lot of stress off you.

On the Wedding Day

Ok, let’s assume the actual wedding day, has arrived. Here’s a typical sequence of events to help guide you on the wedding photography process.

At the House

If you’re taking shots of the bride getting ready, please be early. In fact, you should be one of the earliest to arrive so that you can set up your positions, tripods or whatever equipment you need to use.

At the Church

Once you’re at the church, find out where the priest will be standing. Position yourself in an appropriate position. Some critical locations where wedding photos must be taken include the entrance to church, the aisle and the place where the couple will stand.

And here’s another tip – it’s important not to get too excited about your shots so early on the wedding day. Remember, you have a long day for taking photos. I once did a wedding where I snapped so many photos at the church entrance, I nearly ran out of memory card space by the time the couple exchanged vows!

If there happens to be a church reception, make sure you’re out to the reception area faster than the rest of the guests, and perch yourself in the correct position. Receptions are a good time to capture candid and fun shots, so knock yourself out.

Formal Group Shots

If there are any formal group shots to be taken, be sure your assistant is there to help you. Try to start with the big groups, then slowly remove family members so that you can get the various combinations of family and friends required.

Cleaning up

What do you do after shooting the wedding photos? Well, plenty! You need to do some basic image editing, like removing red eye, cropping and rotating. You also need to burn the photos into CDs and DVDs, (usually in a slideshow format). If you’re in the wedding photography business, you should know that you cannot delay this step. Try to get the CD or DVD final package out to the happy couple as soon as you can.

Conclusion

Whew! That’s a lot of information about wedding photography. Do remember that while wedding photos are challenging to take, they can be very rewarding. Especially when you see the couple smiling and reminiscing about how wonderful their wedding day was. Try to keep the above tips in mind the next time you’re shooting wedding photos. Who knows, one day you may open your own wedding photography business too!

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips--Chapter1

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips

You've heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the photos. Isn't that right? Heck no!

The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It's not the camera that makes beautiful images; it's the photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.

To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card on all that expensive equipment).

1. Warm Up Those Tones

Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel to them? If so, you're not alone. The default white balance setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to be a bit on the "cool" side.

When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That's right, cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.

Figure 1a.

Figure 1b.

Figure 1a is shot outdoors in a mountain environment with the white balance set to auto. Figure 1b shows warmer tones thanks to using the "cloudy" setting and a pair of Costa Del Mar sunglasses over the front lens. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)

If you don't believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side. My guess is that you'll like the warmer image better.